Frequently Asked Questions

What is Dymond Coatings?

Dymond Coatings is a U.S.-based provider of premium epoxy and urethane floor coating systems engineered for performance, durability, and ease of application.

Who are your products for?

Our coatings are used by professional contractors, facility managers, and DIYers tackling garage, warehouse, commercial, or industrial floors.

Are Dymond products made in the USA?

Yes—all our products are manufactured in the United States and formulated to meet strict quality and performance standards.

What is the shelf life of your products?

Most unopened kits have a shelf life of 6 to 12 months when stored between 60–90°F. Check each product's technical data sheet for details.

Do you offer warranties?

Yes. While each product comes with limited warranty terms, proper surface prep and installation are required for coverage. See each product’s TDS for limitations.

How do I prep my concrete for coating?

Use shot blasting or acid etching to achieve a clean, profiled surface (CSP 2–3 minimum). The surface must be free of oil, dust, laitance, or prior coatings.

How can I test for moisture in my slab?

Tape down a 4x4 ft plastic sheet for 24 hours—if no moisture forms beneath, you’re likely good. For precision, use ASTM F1869 or F2170 tests.

How soon can I coat new concrete?

Wait at least 28–30 days for full cure. For high-moisture areas, use Dymond VaporShield 125.

Do I need to grind the floor?

Yes, if you're not shot-blasting, mechanical grinding is the minimum prep standard. A properly profiled surface ensures adhesion.

What if my slab has cracks or damage?

Use TruFix 512 Epoxy Crack Filler for cracks up to 1/8". For fast repairs, TruFix 511 is ideal for liquids-only patching.

Which primer should I use?

Can I apply coatings without primer?

Not recommended unless the substrate is ideal. Primers enhance adhesion and prevent air release bubbles.

How thick should the primer coat be?

Typically 5–12 mils wet. Refer to the product’s data sheet for exact coverage.

What if I accidentally miss the recoat window?

De-gloss and sand the surface thoroughly before recoating. Always check the product's recoat window (usually 8–16 hours).

What’s the difference between your epoxy color coats?

SolidCor 217 is a high-build, impact-resistant color coat ideal for decorative and industrial floors. It delivers excellent durability and is suitable as a body coat or topcoat depending on system build and requirements.

Can I mix different epoxy products in the same layer?

No—only mix components within the same product line and batch. Always test compatibility for layered systems.

How do I build a flake system?

Use a primer, apply a pigmented basecoat like SolidCor 217, broadcast flakes into the wet coat, then top with CrystalCoat polyaspartic or urethane.

Can I apply your epoxy over tiles or wood?

No. These surfaces require different systems. Our coatings are designed for prepared concrete only.

What’s the best topcoat for durability?

CrystalCoat 325 (urethane) for high-wear and chemical resistance.

CrystalCoat 328 or 320 (polyaspartic) for UV stability and fast turnaround.

What’s the cure time before traffic?

Most coatings allow light foot traffic after 12–24 hours. Full chemical/vehicle resistance takes 2–7 days depending on the system.

Are your topcoats UV-stable?

Yes—CrystalCoat 320 and 328 are UV-stable. SolidCor and BondMaxx epoxies are not UV-stable and should be topcoated when color consistency matters.

Do I need to add a non-slip additive?

For pedestrian areas, yes. Non-slip media can be added to topcoats or broadcast between coats.

What tools do I need for installation?

A jiffy mixer, rollers (1/4"–3/8" nap), serrated squeegee, and spiked shoes are the essentials. A leaf blower and vacuum help prep the slab.

Can I pour out the full kit at once?

Mix only what you can apply within the working time—especially for polyaspartics, which can tack off fast.

How do I avoid roller marks?

Maintain a wet edge, use backrolling in opposite directions, and apply evenly with a proper nap roller. Avoid overworking the material late in the pot life.

Can I use heaters or fans to speed up curing?

Only if they don’t introduce moisture or CO₂. Forced-air heat can cause bubbles; never use open flame or propane heat.

Are your products VOC-compliant?

Yes—most of our systems are low- or zero-VOC and meet national compliance levels, including California.

Are Dymond coatings safe for indoor use?

Yes—but ensure good ventilation. Wear gloves, goggles, and a respirator when required. Review SDS before starting.

Do your products resist hot tire pickup?

Yes, when properly installed over a fully cured system. Urethane and polyaspartic topcoats provide the best tire resistance.

Do I need to seal expansion joints?

Yes—use a flexible joint filler compatible with epoxies. All dynamic joints must be honored through the entire system.