FAQ's

Dymond Coatings is a U.S.-based provider of premium epoxy and urethane floor coating systems engineered for performance, durability, and ease of application.

Our coatings are used by professional contractors, facility managers, and DIYers tackling garage, warehouse, commercial, or industrial floors.

Yes—all our products are manufactured in the United States and formulated to meet strict quality and performance standards.

Yes. Each product comes with limited warranty terms. Proper surface preparation and installation are required for coverage. See each product’s Technical Data Sheet (TDS) for details.

Yes — most of our systems are low- or zero-VOC and meet national compliance levels

Yes — but ensure good ventilation. Wear gloves, goggles, and a respirator when required. Always review the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) before starting.

Most unopened kits have a shelf life of 6–12 months when stored between 60–90°F. Check each product’s TDS for details.

Use shot blasting or mechanical grinding (CSP 2–3 minimum) to achieve a clean, profiled surface. The slab must be free of oil, dust, laitance, sealers, or prior coatings.

Tape down a 4x4 ft plastic sheet for 24 hours — if no moisture forms beneath, the slab is likely acceptable. For accuracy, use ASTM F1869 or F2170 tests.

Wait at least 28–30 days for full cure. For high-moisture areas, use Dymond VaporShield 125.

Yes. If you’re not shot-blasting, mechanical grinding is the minimum prep standard to ensure adhesion.

Use TruFix 512 Epoxy Crack Filler for cracks up to 1/8". For fast liquid patch repairs, TruFix 511 is ideal.

No. Dymond coatings are designed for properly prepared concrete only.

Yes. All dynamic joints must be honored through the system. Use a flexible joint filler compatible with epoxies.

The right primer depends on your floor. BondMaxx 113 (water-based) is ideal for standard priming, while BondMaxx 127 (high-build epoxy) is used when you need extra build and strength. If your slab has elevated moisture levels, use VaporShield 125 as a moisture vapor barrier before applying other coatings

Not recommended. Primers improve adhesion by penetrating and bonding to the concrete surface, creating a strong mechanical bond and base for subsequent coats. They also help seal porous concrete, reducing air release. This prevents common issues like pinholes, bubbles, or peeling. Skipping primer increases the risk of weak adhesion, premature coating failure, or visible defects in the floor.

Primer is usually applied at 5–12 mils wet film thickness. Too thin, and it won’t seal the concrete; too thick, and it may trap air. Always check the TDS for the product being used and measure coverage in square feet per gallon to stay within spec.

If you miss the window (usually 8–16 hours), the surface will have cured too far to bond chemically. In that case, sand or grind the surface to de-gloss it and create a profile before applying the next coat. Applying directly over a fully cured layer without prep can lead to peeling.

No. Only mix the two components from the same product line and batch. Combining different epoxies may result in uneven cure, weak bonding, or color issues. If you want to layer different products (primer, body coat, topcoat), always let each cure within its recoat window.

Only if you can apply it within the working time. Epoxies and polyaspartics are time-sensitive. For example, polyaspartics can tack off in 10–20 minutes. Always stage your pour and work in sections so you’re not caught with a curing bucket of material.

At minimum: a jiffy mixer for blending, rollers (1/4"–3/8" nap), a serrated squeegee, and spiked shoes for moving across wet coatings. A HEPA vacuum and leaf blower help prep the slab. Using the right tools ensures even coverage and avoids defects like roller marks.

Keep a wet edge at all times. Apply with the correct nap roller, backroll in opposite directions, and avoid going back over material once it starts to tack. Roller marks are usually caused by uneven application or trying to work material that has already begun curing.

Yes, but with caution. Only use heaters that don’t produce moisture or CO₂, as those can cause bubbles. Indirect forced-air heaters or dehumidifiers are acceptable. Never use propane or open-flame heaters, as they’ll introduce contaminants into the coating.

Yes — CrystalCoat 320 and 328 are UV-stable and resist yellowing. Epoxies like SolidCor and BondMaxx are not UV-stable and should be topcoated when color retention is critical.

In pedestrian or wet areas, yes. Non-slip additives can be mixed into topcoats or broadcast between coats to improve traction. Contractors often use aluminum oxide or polymer grit for safety.

Light foot traffic is usually allowed after 12–24 hours. Heavy traffic, forklifts, or chemical exposure require 2–7 days depending on the coating type and cure temperature. Always plan install timelines with cure time in mind.

Yes — when properly installed over a fully cured system. Epoxies alone may soften under heat, so we recommend finishing with a urethane or polyaspartic topcoat for maximum hot tire resistance.

Orders ship directly from our U.S. warehouses, ensuring fresh stock and fast delivery.

Most orders arrive within 2–5 business days. Pallet or bulk orders may require extra lead time.

Yes. We can ship directly to job locations to save time and keep projects moving.

Yes. Tracking details are emailed once your order leaves the warehouse.

Currently, we only ship within the United States lower 48.